Notes on The Marais

 

(Le Marais) This district embraces much of Le Marais (the swamp), one of the best-loved Right Bank neighborhoods. (It extends into the 4th as well.) After decades of decay, Le Marais recently made a comeback, though it may never again enjoy the prosperity of its 17th-century aristocratic heyday; today it contains Paris's gay neighborhood, with lots of gay/lesbian restaurants, bars, and stores, as well as the remains of the old Jewish quarter, centered on rue des Rosiers. Two of the chief attractions are the Musée Picasso, a kind of pirate's ransom of painting and sculpture the Picasso estate had to turn over to the French government in lieu of the artist's astronomical death duties, and the Musée Carnavalet, which brings to life the history of Paris from prehistoric times to the present.

 

Marais Attractions - Pere Lachaise cemetery-An amazing experience to walk around is the Pere Lachaise cemetery . In among the majestic and gothic mausoleums you can find the graves of Marcel Proust, Edith Piaf, Balzac, Chopin, Oscar Wilde and, most famously, Jim Morrison. Père-Lachaise cemetery is like a miniature city devastated by a neutron bomb : a great number of dead, seemingly empty houses and temples of every size and style, and exhausted survivors, some congregating aimlessly, some searching persistently.  The cemetery was opened in 1804 after an urgent stop had been put on further burials in the overflowing city cemeteries and churchyards, and to be interred in Père-Lachaise quickly became the ultimate symbol of riches and success.  A free map of the cemetery is available at the entrance on rue des Rondeaux by Avenue du Père lachaise, or you can buy a more detailed souvenir one at newsagents near here and the Boulevard de Ménilmontant entrance. The Bastille-The Bastille has a big part of to the French history. By crossing the Seine and following the Boulevard de la Bastille, you will discover the site of the Bastille Saint-Antoine, which was a major part of the defences managed by Charles V, built from 1370 onwards.Louis XIV had his dikes demolished but kept the Bastille as a prestigious prison for people of quality. The Bastille was stormed by the Parisians on the 14th of July 1789, and later razed. To remember not just the surrender of the prison with its last seven occupants by the end of 1789, but the famous July Revolution of 1830, which replaced the autocratic Charles X with the new "Citizen King" Louis-Philippe, a column surmounted by the "Spirit of Liberty" on place de la Bastille was erected.Few months after the birth of the Second Republic later on, the workers took to the streets. All of eastern Paris was fortified, with the fiercest fighting on rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine. The rebellion was quelled with the usual massacres and deportation of survivors, but it is still the less contentious 1789 Bastille Day that France celebrates. Political protestors have always, however, used place de la Bastille as a rallying point, and still do.  Picasso Museum- The Picasso Museum at the Hotel Sale is the worlds greatest Picasso collection. The French state amassed the numerous works in exchange for writing off over his estates £25 million in inheritance taxes after Picasso's death in 1973. In addition to being home to over 4000 original Picasso drawings, paintings, sculptures, ceramics and notebooks the museum also hosts works from Picasso's extensive private collection including Cezanne and Rousseau. Place de la Vosges-Place de la Vosges is central to Parisian life. Over the years some of the most famous Parisians have lived and worked here- Victor Hugo (whose house is now a museum), Balzac and Dumas among them. All around this beautiful area you can take a seat and admire the beautiful gardens from one of the many restaurants and cafes or just stroll around the Antique shops, bookshops and record shops.

 

The Jewish Quarter

 

The city’s most famous Jewish neighborhood is in the Marais and is known as the Pletzl – Yiddish for little Place. This 4th arrondissment district (Metro: St. Paul) has been home to Jews on and off since the thirteenth century. Today, though gentrification has made this one of the city’s most fashionable quarters, it is still heavily Jewish and has been for nearly one hundred years. Up and down rue des Rosiers between rue Malher and rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais, as well as on the streets off rue des Rosiers, you will find Jewish restaurants, bookshops, boulangeries and charcuteries along with synagogues and shtiebels (small prayer rooms – Oratoire in French).As the tide of gentrification sweeps remorselessly through the Marais, the only remaining islet of genuine local, community life is in the city's main Jewish quarter, still centered around Rue des Rosiers, just as it was in the twelfth century. Though many of the little grocers, bakers, bookshops and original cafes are under pressure to sell out to more upmarket enterprises (for a long time local flats were kept empty, not for property speculation, but to try to stem the middle-class invasion), the area manages to retain its Jewish identity. There's also a distinctly Mediterranean flavor to the quarter, testimony to the influence of the North African Sephardim, who, since the end of World War II, have sought refuge here from the uncertainties of life in the French ex-colonies.  They have replenished Paris 's Jewish population, depleted when its Ashkenazim, having escaped the pogroms of Eastern Europe, were rounded up by the Nazis and the French police and transported back east to concentration camps. Don't leave the area without wandering around the clutch of surrounding streets which best represent the evolving identity of the quarter.

 

Pletzel: The heart of Jewish Paris is the Pletzel, a Yiddish name for the old 13th century Jewish quarter found in the Marais district. Despite all the expulsions, Jews managed to find loopholes in the ban, so there was never any time where Jews did not live in Paris. One of the oldest spots in the neighborhood is a 16th century building in the courtyard once called Hotel des Juif, located on rue Ferdinand Duval 20. It was one of the first places occupied by Jews from Alsace-Lorraine and Germany. In the heart of Pletzel is the Memorial to the Unknown Jewish Martyr (rue rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier). The memorial consists of a four-story building, inside the courtyard is a large bronze cylinder with the names of death camps inscribed on it. The crypt contains ashes from concentration camps, and the Warsaw Ghetto. Alongside the memorial is a stone wall with engraved Holocaust scenes. Inside the building is artwork, photo exhibits, a Holocaust documentation center and a library.

 

 

The best-known of Rodin's works, The Thinker (1880-1882), sits outside the Rodin museum in the entry courtyard. At one point, visitors entered through The Gates of Hell, a massive 5.5m-high bronze doorway originally created for the Museum of Decorative Arts (which was to have been located in Paris but never came into existence). Rodin sculpted more than 100 figures for these doors from 1880 until his death in 1917. Several of his works, including The Thinker, are actually studies for these doors. The Gates is no longer used as an entrance, however.

 

The museum's several rooms house many more of the artist's works, including the The Kiss (1886), Eternal Springtime (1884), and The Burghers of Calais, a monument commissioned by the City of Calais in 1884.

 

The museum is housed in the former Hôtel de Biron, a mansion cum garden, vast and designed in the rocaille style in 1730 as a masterpiece of columns and pediments. In succession, it housed the immensely wealthy, saw public balls in its halls, became a convent school and had its gold-and-white paneling ripped out by a mother superior who smelled materialism, and eventually became the subdivided artists’ studios of such luminaries as Isadora Duncan, Jean Cocteau, Henri Matisse, Rainer Maria Rilke, and Rodin.

 

When the French government bought the mansion in 1911, it emerged, despite severe opposition by some politicians and academicians, as a “Rodin museum” – after Rodin agreed to donate his entire oeuvre. In 1919, two years after Rodin’s death, the museum opened its doors -- and what doors they are --  to the public. While there is more than one backstory in Rodin’s life, it is important to note that he failed three times to be admitted to the prestigious École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, and in being denied, Rodin was essentially liberated from their rules. Putting sensation and emotion before the classical tenets and stringent academic convention in sculpture, Rodin used exaggeration and gesture to accurately render feeling and meaning and to give his sculpture the very throb of life.

 

Wildly celebrated yet wildly controversial in his lifetime, Rodin paid the price of innovation right up to his demise. Even as the French Impressionists, as a movement, freed up painting for the breakthroughs of the 20th century, Rodin single-handedly freed sculpture from dogma and restored the tactile values of movement, rhythm, plasticity, and life force.

 

On the Rue de Varenne, after paying the entrance fee at the corner, wander in the large and rather formal garden and note that it becomes intimate whenever you encounter a Rodin sculpture. His most well-known works in the garden include the eternally absorbed Thinker, the harrowing Ugolino and his Children, the equally harrowing Gates of Hell, and The Burghers of Calais.

 

Shown first in 1889, public enthusiasm for The Burghers of Calais was undermined by sneers from the academy. Yet when the blind Helen Keller visited in 1937 and ran her fingers along each of the burghers, she noted that they were “sadder to touch than a grave.” Rodin himself called the work “a living rosary of suffering and sacrifice.” Look to the exaggeration in the feet and particularly the hands. Rodin modeled the hands separately, seeking intensity of expression in hands that pray and hands that weep, hands that question and hands that give in, hands that bless and hands that blaspheme. 

 

Today, the piece is exhibited as Rodin wished – not on a high pedestal but on the lawn, where Everyman can rub shoulders, indeed feel the passion and anguish of these burghers who willingly sacrificed their lives so that the citizens of Calais could live.

 

Also in the garden is the sculpture of Honoré de Balzac, his cape, face, and stance so dynamic that when I last visited, he emerged from the garden’s lime and linden trees almost to “speak.” The impetuous movement of the drapery seems to merge with the head and hair, and the torque and tension between torso, limbs, and head impel the immovable bronze to breathe the fevered intoxication of Balzac’s creativity. Today, few would argue with the power, energy, or substance of this sculpted Balzac, yet the first exhibition by Rodin of a plaster cast of Balzac unleashed outrage. Rodin persevered and started again, making three, four, ten models, yet the Balzac affair, like the contemporaneous Dreyfus affair, unleashed a storm. Though he had much support from abroad and from such artists as Monet, Rodin met with scorn in Paris for putting sensation and emotion before established sculptural practice. The sculpture was not given a public place in Paris until 1939.

 

Nor was Rodin’s dropping of the 19th century convention of the pedestal construction well met. Rodin was accused of denying the base. Instead, like Michelangelo, whom he had studied in Florence, Rodin often let his figures merge with the seemingly unfinished base of the stone itself, expressing his awe at the mystery of form “awakening” from within the stone.  

 

Inside the museum, the rooms are so pleasingly arranged that the chronological progression of Rodin’s work is easily followed in the nearly 500 works (of a total of over 6,000 works owned by the museum) on display. To be sure, everyone gazes, transfixed, on The Kiss, and many pose beside it for the camera, as if the human ecstasy that seems to flow through the marble could be captured and held. (In 1893, when The Kiss was exhibited in Chicago, it was accessible only to visitors with a special pass.)

 

In The Cathedral, comprised of two hands in an attitude of prayer, it usually escapes the viewer that he is observing two right hands. Rodin found that two opposed thumbs lacked the prayerful feeling, the emotion he was attempting to render. In fact, Rodin usually depicted only right hands, with the exception of The Hand of the Devil, in which Satan’s left hand is used to crush humanity.

 

In contrast to the concentrated and tense force of Rodin’s bronzes are the forty restored marble pieces. Pause at The Danaid, whose curves undulate as the finely polished white marble surfaces let the light glide like a caress over the radiant body of the young female figure, in deliberate contrast to the secondary parts left in a rough state.

 

The museum also exhibits Rodin’s drawings, conserves 8,000 photographs of his works, and shows Rodin’s personal collection of paintings by masters as eminent as Van Gogh, Renoir, and Monet. Van Gogh’s Les Moissoneurs holds the viewer in acres of wheat, its farmer lost in a field of gold while in the distance, the city encroaches.

 

And then there is the room containing Rodin’s Sculptor with his Muse. Another backstory. Not to be forgotten for a moment. The 43-year-old Rodin was the sculptor. The 19-year-old Camille Claudel (1864-1943) was the muse. She became his pupil, his model, and his lover of many years. Her relationship with Rodin unfortunately eclipsed the power of her work, but the critic Mirabeau called Claudel “a rebellion against nature: a woman of genius!” The more time spent in the room that Rodin dedicated to her sculptures, the more we are convinced of Claudel’s immense talent. And yet, Claudel spent half of her life locked in a hospital for the insane.

 

When Claudel finally understood that Rodin would not leave Rose Beuret (who managed his household, was also his lover, companion, and mother of his son, and finally his wife in old age, two weeks before she died), she turned her love of Rodin into a singular hatred. Claudel’s mother had rejected her daughter from infancy and was repulsed by her liaison, sans marriage, to Rodin. Claudel’s father had secretly supported her, but after his early death, her support was left to her brother, the writer Paul Claudel. His political aspirations would not tolerate his sister’s scandalous connection or subsequent erratic behavior, so he used a lax French law to drag Camille from her apartment and hide her away in a mental institution for thirty years. Friends who visited her thought her quite sane, as did the hospital staff, who tried to release her, but her mother and brother would not have her. That Rodin dedicated a room to her work indicates that their commingling had deep resonances; it is one of the most fascinating rooms in the museum, and the most sad.