Le
Marais is the closest you will get to the feel of
medieval Paris and has more pre-revolutionary
buildings and streets left intact than any other area in Paris. A glance at some of the beautiful
buildings and houses indicates the wealthy status of the former residents.
After the revolution, much of the area was abandoned by the rich, and poor
bohemian types moved in. (almost the opposite of Soho
in NY) The area was considered so squalid at this point it was nearly destroyed
by city officials who wanted to modernize Paris. (A huge avenue cutting through
the center of the Marais was only avoided by the
start of WWI.) You should keep in mind that before Napoleon showed up
the Marais is what most of Paris looked like--- a labyrinth of
cobblestone alleys. The rest of Paris
was razed by Napoleon and Haussman who
wanted to build huge avenues and gigantic squares such as the Place Concorde.
These are now the glory of Paris,
but they were originally conceived so that armies and artillery could be moved
around the city to keep the poor in check and defeat invaders. On a more
metaphysical level, the purpose of such broad space is to make the citizen feel
small and powerless when faced with the giant civic machine of government, or
an obedient army. In the Marais we are privy
to the small and approachable Paris
of the past, the place to wander in maddening circles and never find your way,
the place to hole up and read Sartre or Camus
in a café window or stare at that Parisian beauty with her slim cigarette and
wild scarf. The Marais is also the most famous Jewish
quarter in Paris and in much of Europe, still maintaining strong traditions.